When we were living in Southern California I fell in love with surfing. It was a love-hate relationship, with far more HATE. My frustrations in California stemmed from the following…
1) Surfing is hella inconsistent. In kayaking the river ALWAYS flows. In rock climbing the rock NEVER changes. But in surfing you have to wait for swell, and when it arrives you have to factor in swell direction, wind, tides, and location.
2) Once the waves actually arrive and all the other variables come into alignment, you still have to compete with dozens of other surfers to catch one wave. Hassling for waves is at best a nuisance, and at worst a danger to your health. I had some interesting experiences surfing the pier at Venice Beach. And of course there was Tunco, El Salvador.
Nevertheless, I always got in there, usually right in the middle, and tried my best.
One of the most exciting aspects of leaving the USA was to find uncrowded and consistent waves. It wasn’t easy to find. Although we surfed our way down the entire Pacific coast of Mexico and Central America, all we ever saw were glimmers of hope. That is until we arrived in Peru.
Northern Peru has the most consistent surf I’ve ever seen. And it is completely roadside, which means I can go out for a couple hours and be back at work in no time. No driving, hiking, or F’ing around.
Check out this arial shot of Huanchaco…
When there is no crowd and you can catch any wave you want, a 2 hour session is all you need.
But after weeks of surfing, I’ve had to take my self out of the game. I’m just too tired. Today it happened, I benched myself.
I got nothing left to give. Yet the waves keep coming.
Most people think/claim that surfing was invented in Hawaii, but few know that the claim is actually in dispute. Many believe that surfing was first practiced in Northern Peru.
I’m not going to debate the origins of the sport, but I can certainly see how the indigenous people of Peru would have been compelled to ride the swell here in Huanchaco.
So today will be a rest day. And tomorrow… back out there.